Taking a Day Off in Helena, Montana

Kristen and I are out on a 4 week tour to the Pacific Northwest. We are out for 31 days on the road with 3 days off from shows. Fun!  One of those days off we were in Montana and we had a great time in and around Helena, MT- the state capital!  Helena was very briefly the largest town in Montana at just the right time to become the capital, before Butte far surpassed it in population. Helena is an old gold mining town and is surrounded by natural beauty. We spent our night off camping at a MT State Park on Canyon Ferry Reservoir, which is about 20 miles west of Helena. After checking out all the campgrounds in the area, we picked Chinamen Campground: $10 a night, swimming and boating launch, mule deer friendly, and with no showers. Who needs showers!? (We found some down the road at a Kim’s Marina, though.)

Lady Van loves a nice flat camping spot with a view of a lake.
Lady Van loves a nice flat camping spot with a view of a lake. Well, this is actually a reservoir, but still… 🙂
Kristen on a little hike around at Canyon Ferry Reservoir.
Can you smell the sagebrush?
OMG, you guys, I love the water! It was a Monday in early June, so we practically had the place to ourselves. The water was beautiful, a little bit of algae but I was more concerned about the huge fish. Yes, I know they are more scared of me, but still! The water temperature was refreshing in the 85 degree sunshine. 
We called this the gay beach since it was just us on this stretch. There three guys on Sea-doos going back and forth, back and forth across the reservoir all day, also some water skiers. Zoom!
We saw so many mule deer at the Chinamen Campground. I love seeing wildlife, especially cute and friendly wildlife. In the morning, a mule deer munched on yellow flowers while I wrote my morning pages.
There was amazingly a good deal of firewood in our fire pit when when we showed up at the campsite. We took advantage and grilled sausages and veggies over the fire. Nom nom nom!
Sunset around 10pm 🙂
Skipping stones! The reservoir was totally surrounded by smooth flat little stones. I even managed to skip them.
A beautiful historic building in downtown Helena.
A beautiful historic building in downtown Helena.
Blackfoot Brewing in downtown Helena is where we played a show and where we drank delicious beers. Montana state law only allows 48 oz of beer per customer at a brewery and they have to close at 8pm!
A statue of the Bullwacker in downtown Helena, MT.
A statue of the Bullwacker in downtown Helena, MT.
Look at this crazy elaborate church they have in Helena!
Look at this crazy elaborate church they have in Helena!
Kristen having fun on a historic trolley in downtown Helena, MT.
There I am at the top of  Mount Helena, which is a great hike that starts right in the city. It climbs up the peak so you can gaze down onto Helena. At the summit we found a toy sword stuck into a hole in the rock and took some fun shots.
Kristen’s turn with the sword at the top of Mount Helena.
There are tons of wildflowers in bloom in Montana right now. Gorgeous!
There are tons of wildflowers in bloom in Montana right now. Gorgeous!
Thanks for the good times on our day off, Helena!

We are currently having our last day off of the tour.  Unfortunately, not quite as fun this time as we are broken down in Hot Springs, SD. We spent the day waiting for a part for the Lady Van which will hopefully get her fixed up and rolling tomorrow. I guess it’s good luck that we are off today since that means no shows canceled because of the van, but still might have been nice to go to the Badlands National Park as planned. Hot Springs, SD is a fun historic town though!


CATvsOWL 2016 SXSW showcase lineup at Cherrywood Coffeehouse 3/17/16

catvsowl 2016 version 4 horizonal flyer catvsowl 2016 version 3

Listen to the playlist!

Join us Thursday, March 17th from 12pm to 10pm at Cherrywood Coffeehouse 1400 E 38 1/2 St Austin, TX. All ages and No Cover. Here’s our 2016 lineup of 19 amazing artists!

12:00-12:50 Stood with Ghosts/Joey James/Shani Rose 

Stood with Ghosts indie- Portland OR



Joey James– Country- Ashland OR\
Shani Rose– pop- Los Angeles
12:55-2:00 Bose Troubadors in the round Jeff Campbell, Jamie Kent, Megan Slankard, Matthew Szlachetka
Jeff Campbell– San Francisco- singer songwriter
Megan Slankard– San Francisco- singer songwriter
Jamie Kent– Nashville- singer songwriter
Matthew Szlachetka– Los Angeles- singer songwriter
2:15-2:45  Future Kings 
 Future Kings– Kansas City- indie rock

3:00-4:00 Hip Hop afternoon featuring Genesis Blu, Neak, High Strung, Feezarelli

Genesis Blu– Houston TX- hip hop
Neak– Chicago IL- hip hop
High Strung– San Antonio-hip hop
photo for web
Feezarelli– Flint MI- Hip hop
4:15-4:45  BAST 
Bast– rock- Atlanta GA
 5-5:35  The Head 
The Head– rock- atlanta GA
5:50-6:25 Rachel Mallin and the Wild Type
Rachel Mallin & The Wild Type- indie rock  Kansas City, MO
 6:40-7:20 Kristen Ford 
Kristen Ford– indie rock-Nashville, TN

Kristen_Ford pic by Brian Slattery big

7:35-8:15 Violet and the Undercurrents 
Violet and the Undercurrents– Indie rock- Columbia, MO
 8:30-9:10  Remanon
Remanon Prog Rock San Antonio TX
REMpromoaztec smaller (1)
9:25-10:00  Kwame Binea Shakedown
 Kwame Binea Shakedown– New York City

12:00-12:50 Stood with Ghosts/Joey James/Shani Rose 

10 min change

12:55-2:00 Bose Troubadors in the round Jeff Campbell, Jamie Kent, Megan Slankard, Matthew Szlachetka

15 min change

2:15-2:45  Future Kings 

15 min change

3:00-4:00 Hip Hop afternoon featuring Genesis Blu, Neak, High Strung, Feezarelli

15 min change

4:15-4:45  BAST 

15 min change

5-5:35  The Head 

15 min change

5:50-6:25 Rachel Mallin and the Wild Type

15 min change

6:40-7:20 Kristen Ford 

15 min change

7:35-8:15 Violet and the Undercurrents 

15 min change

8:30-9:10  Remanon

15 min change

9:25-10:00  Kwame Binea Shakedown

To RSVP visit http://tinyurl.com/catvsowl2016



For Sponsorship, Media Requests and High Fives, email Promoter Kristenfordmusic@gmail.com

A Wine Weekend in Bolivia

Proudly Bolivian. This dog is definitely giving off that vibe.


Bolivia may not have a coastline, but that doesn’t mean it lacks for geological diversity, stunning landscapes, or fun places to go swimming.  Last week we took a jaunt to Villa Abecia in southern Bolivia for a new library inauguration with Biblioworks and tacked on a tourist weekend in Tarija.  Both towns are in Bolivian wine country, so we did our best to taste the local vintages! This is high altitude wine country, with some award winning wines that allegedly have higher antioxidant levels than wines grown at lower altitudes.  Drink up!

We started out the trip with a six hour ride south. There were seven of us from Biblioworks going so we rented a minivan taxi just for us.  The road, like most in Bolivia was extremely windy and involved unpaved “shortcuts”. Our driver, like most in Bolivia, drove like a maniac who felt no need to stay on either side of the road, obey any speed limit signs, or pull over when our ten year old passenger got carsick and vomited into a plastic bag…numerous times. Thank goodness for headphones and podcasts!

The first thing we did when we arrived in Villa Abecia is hit up this bodega to taste the wines. We ended up buying a bottle of sweet port, bringing it back to our bed and breakfast and drinking the whole thing. Don’t worry, there were four of us so it wasn’t too much! Yummy port from Don Tomás that is available for sale in Sucre, if you don’t make it to this tiny town. The B&B we stayed at was right behind this building and is called Cepas de Mi Abuelo. I definitely recommend it. It’s a beautiful place with vineyards and lots of cute pets, including a friendly horse named Sargente..
Here is a view of Villa Abecia from the balcony of the municipal building. Its really a beautiful little town.
Here I am in a giant wine barrel in the town square. We had to blow up tons of balloons for the library inauguration to give out to all of the children who came. Guess how long they lasted? Pop!
Kristen brought the guitar to lend some musical ambiance to the festivities. Then this guy with an accordion turned up to MC the event and a jam session ensued. He also played a men guitar 🙂 In front is the dog from our hotel who we named Sigue and saved much meat from our meat heavy lunch. Our new best friend, but he needs a bath!
The inauguration of the new library in Villa Abecia. Everyone was pumped!

Biblioworks is a non-profit organization based in Sucre, Bolivia and Asheville, NC, USA. They help fund, set up, and train librarians for small rural communities. Some of their libraries are in schools and some, like this one in Villa Abecia, are run by the municipality. The town chooses the librarian and runs the library with Biblioworks as their adviser. Eventually, the libraries are meant to become self-sustaining without the aid of Biblioworks.

The library inauguration involved much speech giving and some poetry recitals by the children. Bolivian poetry recitals involve many choreographed movements it turns out.
We found some waterfalls to swim in with the local children. It was a hot day and luckily there was water in these potholes as it is the dry season still.  Not the cleanest water but so refreshing.


The crew from Biblioworks: Megan, the volunteer coordinator, Maritza the director, and Kristen the guitar teacher.


After Villa Abecia we took a cab south to the city of Tarija. Lonely Planet guidebook calls the town “laid back”, and I’d have to say that I agree. Unfortunately, we got there after dark with no hotel reservation, so after our cab driver dumped us unceremoniously on the side of the road no where near downtown, we did our best to find a room for the night. Since we are cheap, I mean, on a tight budget, we ended up at not the nicest place in town, the Gran Hotel Londres. It seemed like it had lot of potential since the lobby looked like this:

Jesus crucified in a skirt and an alter to San Roque? Sweet!
I mean, doesn’t this place look like it might be in a Wes Anderson movie? Just a little bit?


Well, we ended up packing up and finding a new hotel in the morning, mostly because the mattresses where like tiny gym mats that couldnt’ have been more uncomfortable. Oh, and there were buzzing mosquitos around all of our ears all night. Somehow I escaped without any bites but Kristen was covered. Rough night, not worth the $7 a night even with the cool decor. Check out Hotel Miraflores instead. Same price but slightly better mattresses and less bugs.

After getting set up with our new hotel, we booked a wine tasting tour for the afternoon. We went with Viva Tours, which was priced the same as all the others but came recommended. For some reason they told us to show up at 1:30, I guess so we could wait on the deserted street corner for half an hour, but otherwise the tour was fine. They say you will swing by a cool canyon for a scenic overlook/photo opp but this was no the case on our tour.

Our first stop was Campos de Solana, which is one of the most widely available wines in Bolivia. We are fans 🙂 They started up in 2000 but already have won many awards and have some $3 table wines that are perfect everyday wines. And yes, we usually have wine everyday since the beer is so atrocious.
Kristen and Megan waiting for our winery tour.
Inside the Campos de Solana winery, perhaps the cleanest place we have been in Bolivia, and it smelled good too!
Kristen, me, and Megan, ready to drink some wine. Unfortunately, their idea of a wine tasting at this winery is to make your whole tour group come to a consensus on one type of wine to share, and then you open a half bottle together. Someone needs to tell them about pouring lots of little shots of wine and then pushing the hard sell. I mean, no one even suggested we buy some wine… which is really too bad. Maybe we didn’t look thirsty?
Next we hit up Casa Real to see how singani is distilled. Singani is made of grapes kind of like cognac or pisco, but is distinctly Bolivian. The tasting here consisted of cocktails at the end. Ok, yum, but could we just try singani straight? The Casa Real black is delicious and apparently they export it to the USA!
Next we hit up Casa Real to see how singani is distilled. Singani is made of grapes kind of like cognac or pisco, but is distinctly Bolivian. The tasting here consisted of cocktails at the end. Ok, yum, but could we just try singani straight? The Casa Real black is delicious and apparently they export it to the USA! The traditional drink is singani and ginger ale, called a chuflay. The distillry equipment here is from France and really cool looking but no photos please!


Our last stop was at Casa Vieja, which is a small winery in a 400 hundre year old house. This place was nuts, mostly because it was over run by Bolivian teenagers who were in town for a soccer tournament
Our last stop was at Casa Vieja, which is a small winery in a 400 hundre year old house. This place was nuts, mostly because it was over run by Bolivian teenagers who were in town for a soccer tournament. The tasting here was pretty crazy. About 40 teenagers and us in a circle, 9 glasses of wine poured and then passed around the circle in rapid succession. So all 40 of us drank out of the same cup and tried a bunch of different wines all within about 3 minutes while the winery owner told us to hurry up. Kristen was horrified and wouldn’t participate which wasn’t much of a loss because the wine was pretty much terrible!
We decided to hit the town in Tarija because it was Halloween. We meant some very friendly Bolivians at a fun bar called La Bifuracda. This guy Alejandro got us passed some tight security at a nightclub called The Blue Parrot. Fun times dancing on Halloween.
We decided to hit the town in Tarija because it was Halloween. We met some very friendly Bolivians at a fun bar called La Bifuracda. This guy Alejandro got us passed some tight security at a nightclub called The Blue Parrot. Fun times dancing!

The next morning was a little slow due to Halloween shenanigans. We hit up our favorite breakfast spot, Gatto Pardo for the third time since they had real coffee. Then we tried to see some more waterfalls in the nearby village of Coimata. We took a bus headed to Tomatitos then caught a trufi from the bridge there. At the bridge were many ladies selling congrejos, which are tiny freshwater crabs. We tried one but hangover belly wasn’t having more than that.

The van ride from the bridge was very entertaining, with many local woman getting on and off with bottles of strange substances and bags of brown liquids and terrible smells.  a teenage girl wanted to question us about our origins, hair and eye colors and what languages we could speak. Finally, we reached the waterfalls, and although it was too chilly to swim, but had a nice time hanging out.


Well, that was our trip to Tarija more or less. We took an overnight bus back to Sucre that night. I think we went with the bus line Expresso or something like that, with reclining seats for 140 Bolivianos. The driver was a mad man, blasting tunes all night long, passing other buses on curves, and causing the woman behind us to panic. At one point she tried to get us to yell at him since she already had. I declined, knowing it was pointless. Luckily, we survived and made it back to Sucre in about 10 freezing, terrifying hours. The bus left us near, but not at, the bus terminal? and we went back to Casa de Javiers for a long nap.

Volunteering in Yamparaez, Bolivia

Kristen and I have been in Bolivia for a couple of weeks now. Part of the reason that we came to Bolivia is to volunteer with an organization called Biblioworks. Biblioworks is a nonprofit organization founded by a Peace Corp volunteer who started a library in the rural town of Morado K’asa.  The demand for more such libraries was high so Biblioworks has helped open 12 small, rural libraries to benefit the people of the Bolivian countryside. While we are in Bolivia we will go to three or four of these libraries near Sucre and try to promote literacy through music. The first library we visited was in the town of Yamparaez. We spent five days in this pueblo reading to the children, writing and playing songs together, and being cultural ambassadors for the USA. It was quite first week!

Bienvenidos a Yamparaez! It is very common to write messages in stones on the dry, rocky hillsides around here. Yamparaez has about 1000 residents and lies around 20km outside of Sucre. Each day was an adventure getting there and back. We even managed one lift in the back of a pickup, which was great until it started to rain…
The streets of Yamparaez generally look like this, although sometimes there are more dogs. Not much going on!
Here’s Kristen in the library leading the kids in song. I read a book to them and then we have some prompts to help us all write songs using ideas from the book. We also have some small percussion for the children to play. They LOVE music, Kristen could just play songs for them and they would be content. The point is to try and get them reading more, though, so we do our best to get them interested in the library. Here we’ve asked them to describe their neighborhood to us, which mostly lead to a long list of animals one can find in Yamparaez.
A rare moment of concentration before all hell breaks lose! It would be difficult for Kristen and I to control 30 eight years who spoke English- but we are doing our best.  Perhaps the teacher might have accompanied this music class…
After reading and singing a lot of the children wanted to take a shot at playing guitar.
I have no idea if any of these kids can understand my accent but luckily they were reading along.
If we had extra time we would do some drawings of our songs.
This is the main plaza in Yamparaez where Kristen and I hung out in between workshops. A couple of years ago they found a giant fossil here, which they thought might be a dinosaur egg but turned out to be the shell of this giant armadillo-like mammal called a gliptodon. Egg or shell, they were still pumped enough to make this statue.
Hanging out in Yamparaez! I’m learning lots of new chords on the guitar during our down time.
Here is the exterior of the library. I’m not sure what the downstairs room is for, but the library takes up the upper floor. The library closes for siesta so we waited outside for the return of the elusive librarian.

So there are some deets from our first week of volunteering with Biblioworks. Our Spanish is getting better, even though much is still very confusing about Bolivia to us 😃 Next week we will be taking the workshop to the pueblo of Pampa Aceituno. Should be fun!

Confronting Our Fears in the Amazon

I think it´s safe to say that the highlight of our time in Peru was our trip to the Amazon. We took an overnight bus from Cusco to the city of Puerto Maldonado.  This was another long, winding Peruvian road in the dark down from Cusco to the Amazon basin. The geography of Peru is just incredible, going from the mountainous heights of Cusco at 11,000 feet, down to Puerto Maldonado at 600 feet in just a couple hundred miles.  Our bus was ok, but since the new highway opened between Cusco and Puerto Maldonado a couple of years ago, all the bus companies now have connections between the two cities. We took Movil out there, which was not that great, and then Tepsa back, which is a much more comfortable busline in my opinion. Of course, Movil only cost 40 Soles ($12.50) while Tepsa cost us 65 Soles ($20), there´s that something to think about if you have a tight budget.

Puerto Maldonado is HOT.  You´re in the jungle!  Everyone rides motorcycles and the taxi cabs are little covered carts attached to the motorcyclea, if you have luggage, or just the back of the motorcycle if you don´t have luggage. We stayed at the hostel in town called Tambopata Hostel. It´s a nice enough place, although the walls don´t really attach to anything and are made of thin wood, so there is no privacy. This hostel also organizes tours to the jungle for cheaps, and we read good things online so decided to go with hostel´s organized tour. We went for 2 nights and 3 days to Lake Sandoval. It costs $175 each, all taxes, fees, room and board included, which was totally worth it. You can pay much more and see more areas of the Amazon and stay at much fancier places than we did, but this was in our budget and did not disappoint. Here are a bunch of pictures of what we saw:

Two ladies ready for the jungle.
Two ladies ready for the jungle. The first step of our journey to Lake Sandoval was a 45 minute boat ride up the Madre de Deus river.  We were joined by gringos from all over the world, but no other Americans.
Ok, so there are a lot of animals in the jungle, but my favorite part was the plethora of butterflies. There were always butterflies flitting around at all times, even though the ones at night were moths….
After the powered boat ride up the Madre de Deus river, we had to hike for about an hour along a muddy trail though the Amazon. After that we all got into this canoe and went out onto the Lake Sandoval. Our guide, Angel rowed us all around in this boat, very slowly, looking for wildlife.
Kristen´s favorite animal to spot was the monkey. There are 5 different kinds of monkeys living around Lake Sandoval and we saw 4 of them. Not that I can remember their names, but I think this is a capuchin monkey. There were tons of these guys eating fruit and being cute, right on the edge of the lake.
Lake Sandoval has four local families that live along the lake. They are the only ones allowed to farm, hunt, or fish in the natural reserve around the lake. We stayed with one of these families, at probably the least fancy of the eco hostels. We didn´t see much of them, but they made all of our meals and even caught piranha from the lake for us to eat for breakfast one day. Yum!
This is our little shack at the eco hostel. Hammocks are necessary because it´s way too hot there to touch anything but the slight breeze. These shacks were not much protection from the elements, and by elements I mean bugs. We took a lot of time each night inspecting the cabin for spiders and then tucking in our mosquito net really well. Luckily, there were no mosquitos, but the net felt like a sheild against the giant insects.
Time for a dip in the piranha invested lake full of alligators! For reasons unknown and unexplained, the area right near our dock was supposedly safe for swimming. So, swim we did! It felt amazing in the lukewarm bathwater of Lake Sandoval. Finally we were wet because of water and not because of pouring sweat.
The best thing to do while swimming in the lake, besides looking for colder spots, was watching the butterflies annoy the turtles. The butterflies would land on the turtles to eat the dried algae off of them, and the turtles would swat at them in frustration. I never knew a turtle could move his little arms so fast!
We saw a ton of birds around the lake and our guide knew all their names, but I forget them all. Maybe this is a leopard heron? Cool looking though!
Sunset on our first night in Lake Sandoval. We took the rowboat out in the dark and pointed high power flashlights along the shore looking for the glow of caiman eyes. So many ´gators out there!
On our first night, after dinner, we went on a nighwalk in order to scare the shit out of ourselves. The tarantula was actually kind of cute compared to most of the spiders and giant insects we saw. I didn´t take many pictures because I was mostly staring at my feet and pretending I was somewhere else.
This trip involved getting up ridiculously early in the morning to see what was happening at dawn. The first dawn we watched birds at a clay lick. These parrots eat the minerals out of this dead tree in order to neutralize the toxicity from all the fruits and plants they eat during the day.
A howler monkey making it´s creepy howler monkey noise. Seriously, you should google the noise of the howler monkey and listen to it, because it is something otherworldly and very present in the Amazon. It´s like a human thunder, and they make this noise at dawn, dusk, when it rains, and when they feel their territory threatened.
Here´s Kristen and our local guide, Angel. He was showing us how the natives use a flower to dress up during dances and ceremonies.  Angel could see anything in the Amazon, so we called him eagle eyes.
Here´s an example of Angel eagle eyes finding an insect that looks like a leaf, hanging out on a leaf.
Leaf cutter ants! We watched their interesting fellows climb down a huge tree trunk with their little bits of leaves, trample their own path through the forest floor, and then disappear into giant ant mounds. The leaves they let rot so a fungus will grow on them, then they eat the fungus.
Sunset in the Amazon. We stayed out paddling in the dark, getting bombarded by moths and the bats attempting to eat them. Every time we turned on the flashlights to look for caiman, hundreds of moths would swarm. The piranhas would jump out of the lake to eat the moths as well, but still the lake was covered in white moths in the morning when we set out to look for giant river otters at dawn.
More nameless birds we saw croaking at dawn at our dock when we set out to look for the otters.
We found the otters! These guys are cute but deadly. They are at the top of the food chain at the lake, and will even take out giant caiman when they work together. We watched them from an appropriate distance through binoculars as they swam and chowed down on piranha. Such fierce teeth!
Kristen checking out Coco the Caiman. This was probably the largest alligator we saw and Angel named him Coco so the danger feeling kind of receded a little bit.
Here´s another example of Angel eagle eyes, finding a frog that looks like a leaf, hanging out on a leaf.
We did a lot of swinging on vines during our jungle walks. I wasn´t particuarly good at it, but I gave it my best shot…  Tarzan!
Most of the rainforest we trekked around it, is second growth forest on land that was once used for farming and is now natural reserve. Here´s a big tree we found though. The natives take a plant drug called ayahuasca to commune with these trees. The trees will tell them what plants in the forest will cure their hurts and diseases.
One of the most fun things to do in the Amazon is poke things with a stick. Here we are poking a tarantula whole with a stick so the tarantula would come out chasing the stick away. I couldn´t believe I saw Kristen, Miss Big Spider Coward, poking a tarantula hole with a stick. Confronting our fears!
More birds! These silly chicken looking birds where all over the place. I forget what their actual name is, of course, but their nickname is asthmatic birds because they make a funny wheezing noise all the time. You can always hear them out in the jungle.  Four in a row of these silly fellows!
Here is the Madre de Deus river as we were leaving the rainforest and heading back to Puerto Maldonado. We had really nice weather for our jungle trip, but on the way back a big storm hit us on the river. Fun! This is what raincoats and pack covers are for though!

So, there you have a little peek into our trip to the Amazon.  There is Amazon in Bolivia as well, where we are now, but it about a 12 hour bus ride to reach it from Sucre and I´m not sure we will have the time or patience for that again.  Our hostel in Puerto Maldonado was nice enough to store our luggage while we went into the rainforest and let us shower when we got back. Of course, there was a school group of about 40 ten year old children when we got there so the line for the shower was long, but luckily we weren´t in a rush!

CatvsOwl Heads to Peru!

No, we didn´t drive the Lady Van to Peru.  We aren´t sure she would have enjoyed the ride, and the way things have been going, she probably would have been stolen by now.  Rut roo, everyone has a different experience traveling abroad, but ours happened to begin with a stolen bag so confidence is low that we would have been able to hang onto a whole automobile…. Regardless of our vanless and bagless status we are trying to keep our chins up and enjoy our travels outside of the states.  Here are some highlights thus far in Peru:

P1070455Ceviche in Lima. Ceviche is s delicious raw fish dish made with lime juice, red onions, chiles and amazingness.  We got ours with mixed seafood, which seemed like the right thing to do since we were literally on the coast with fishing boats in view  We went to the place on the tourist map provided by the hostel and it didn´t disappoint. It´s in the Barracas neighborhood and I think it´s called El Muelle. This sampler plate set us back about $20 and included some yummy paella and fried fish.



 Sea Lions and birds on Islas Ballestas. We took a boat ride out to these islands from the little town of Paracas, which is about 4 hours south of Lima. This was the bus ride when Kristens stuff was stolen so be more attentive than us when taking the Soyuz bus. OMG- such an awesome wildlife experience in Paracas though. Wish the binoculars hadn´t been stolen but you still get so up close with the seas lions, it´s a bit worrisome.




Bike riding through Paracas National Reserve. We rented bikes for the afternoon after we saw the sea lions and biked through some amazing coastal desert.  Unfortunately, we hadn´t replaced our stolen sunscreen so we got a bit burnt. Sorry about the skin in the next couple of photos, we did get sunscreen since.




Sandboarding in Huacachina. I´m not really sure what I thought sandboarding or dunebuggying would be like, but I soon found that it is terrifying. Crazy people drive tons of gringos over the dunes at high speeds and then provide wooden boards to slide down the dunes face first. I´m proud of myself for doing it, but I think I´ll pass on doing it again. 🙂




Eating cuy in Cusco. Cusco is a great city, but we mostly did shopping there to replace Kristen´s stolen things. They have great North Face knockoffs for next to nothing! On Saturdays there is a pirate market we wish we could have been around for, because apparently that is where a lot of the stolen gringo gear shows up.  We ate guinea pig though, had lots of pisco sours, and managed to somehow see the same Peruvian cover band at two different bars.  They called it destiny but I´m not so sure…




The death cab to Machu Picchu. We decided not to take the overpriced train to Machu Picchu so that involved taking a speeding rocket of a minivan down a dirt road with no guardrails and steep dropoffs into ravines and rivers. I was glad I´d already been scared to death on the dune buggy because this turned out to be a breeze.  The drive to Aguas Calientes, and the 3 hours walk along the train tracks after the road ended, was one of my favorite parts of our trip so far!P1070688



Machu Picchu. We decided to hike up the mountain to Machu Picchu instead of taking the overpriced tourist bus (are you seeing a Machu Picchu overpriced theme here?) Anyway, the hike was mostly stairs and then when we got up there we hiked to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain which was even higher than we already climbed.  And we´re not talking switchbacks here, the Inca liked stairs. Tons of stairs. Neverending stairs.  But what a view at the top!



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hanging in Ollantaytambo. There are ruins all around this old Inca town, so we skipped the expensive entrance ones and went to free ones instead.  It is a great little town, although the Peruvians love to take advantage of gringos as much in Ollantaytambo as they do in Machu Picchu.  Watch out for the burritos and head straight for Blue Magic Restaurant for alpaca.


Thanks for sending us good vibes, we could use some.  We had some bad luck in Ollantaytambo because some dorm mates took Kristen´s phone  in the night on accident and we are still trying to figure out a handoff to get it back.  In the meantime we are off to the Amazon- never a dull moment! Love from Peru to you!