Kristen and I are out on a 4 week tour to the Pacific Northwest. We are out for 31 days on the road with 3 days off from shows. Fun! One of those days off we were in Montana and we had a great time in and around Helena, MT- the state capital! Helena was very briefly the largest town in Montana at just the right time to become the capital, before Butte far surpassed it in population. Helena is an old gold mining town and is surrounded by natural beauty. We spent our night off camping at a MT State Park on Canyon Ferry Reservoir, which is about 20 miles west of Helena. After checking out all the campgrounds in the area, we picked Chinamen Campground: $10 a night, swimming and boating launch, mule deer friendly, and with no showers. Who needs showers!? (We found some down the road at a Kim’s Marina, though.)
We are currently having our last day off of the tour. Unfortunately, not quite as fun this time as we are broken down in Hot Springs, SD. We spent the day waiting for a part for the Lady Van which will hopefully get her fixed up and rolling tomorrow. I guess it’s good luck that we are off today since that means no shows canceled because of the van, but still might have been nice to go to the Badlands National Park as planned. Hot Springs, SD is a fun historic town though!
Last week, Kristen and I were in Oregon, playing shows and exploring some great outdoors. We played a show in Bend, OR on a Thursday night before Memorial Day weekend. What a great little town, with tons of unique shops, restaurants and parks around. The day after the show we drove a half hour north of Bend to the town of Terrebonne where Smith Rock State Park is located. This is a gem of a park. Look at it! We did a loop hike through the park that was about 5 miles long and took us around 3 hours to hike with lots of stops and picture breaks.
We took the Misery Ridge loop trail through the park. You can pick up a handy dandy park map at the pay station which shows all the trails in the park. It costs $5 for a day pass to the park which is so worth it. Bargain price for a whole car full of hikers or picnickers or rock climbers. This park is known for rock clicking, which makes sense when you see all the amazing rock walls in the park. The Misery Ridge loop is anything but miserable. It is a 3.7 mile loop but we added on another mile section to the loop along the Crooked River. There are some steeps climbs and stairs involved in this hike but it’s moderate difficulty overall.
Thanks for the good times Smith Rock! We are already looking forward to our return to Oregon!
Well, we have had some time to reflect about our 6 weeks in Bolivia and write some blog posts of our impressions. First, I had to get off my chest what annoyed the crap about of me about Bolivia. Now it is time to write the happy post about all the things I really enjoyed about Bolivia. It is a very interesting country. You can decide for yourself whether or not you want to travel there, I´m not going to recommend it or discourage you 😉
#1. DOGS! Everywhere You Look! This might not be everyone´s cup of tea, but it was one of my favorite things about Bolivia. There are dogs everywhere! And they are, for the most part, friendly. The ones that don´t approach you for love or meat, will just ignore you. We didn´t have any dogs bark at us or growl, unless we approached them, which we probably shouldn´t have done 🙂
The thing about street dogs in Bolivia is that a lot of them actually have homes. The Bolivian method of dog ownership being somewhat different than the American way, it is normal to leave your dog outside all day while you go to work. The dog then strolls the neighborhood, or just sits on your doorstep, waiting for you to come home and feed him at the end of the day. In this way, most of the street dogs are well fed and happy, albeit totally dirty. Lots of Bolivians have purebreed dogs as well, and these ones you will not see on the street wandering, especially the girl dogs. Of course, with all these dogs wandering around, there is a lot of poop everywhere as well, so watch your step.
#2. The Price is Right Bolivia is cheap. You can go out for all your meals and take Spanish classes and rent a nice room for very little money. It´s fun to be traveling and not have to worry about money. Of course, there aren´t a lot of nice things to buy so sometimes you just want to pay for a fancy hotel room and you can´t find one anywhere, but whatever, you can save your money for another country.
#3. So Much Sugar to Eat 🙂 and Potatoes
There are some really delicious things to eat in Bolivia, although I might have tried to convince you otherwise in my last post. Most of the extremely yummy things in Bolivia are made of sugar. These people are crazy about sugar. There are candy and snacks everywhere and everyone is eating them. There are also a lot of dentist offices….
They do also make some tasty things about of potatoes. My favorite is the papa rellena, or stuffed potato. It´s more a less mashed potatoes that are formed in a ball around some filling. The filling could be meat and veggies, hardboiled egges, cheese, or platains. Then the ball is dipped in batter and deep-fried. Yum! The lady across the street from our house sold these covered in a delicious stewed onion salsa and accompanied by cole slaw. So good. I wish I had taken a picture, but I was too busy eating.
Another typical Bolivia dish is called Pique Machado. It consists of 3 or 4 different kinds of meats, mine had beef, chorizo, and hot dogs. The meat is piled onto a dish of french fries (never forget the potatoes) and covered in fresh tomatoes and onions. Oh, and there is hardboiled eggs and fresh cheese surrounding it. Yes, and the whole thing is covered in delicious gravy. Yum!
#4. Oh, the Wonderfully Genuine People You Will Meet
If you get past the tourist rabble, offering you questionable tours of things they think you want to see and hear, you will meet some amazing people in Bolivia. The staff at Biblioworks where we volunteered was the nicest group of ladies around. The kids we met at the school were incredibly sweet and kind little beings, adding beauty and light to the world.
#5 Sucre is a Kick Ass City
Sucre is the constitutional capital of Bolivia, and while I´m not sure what that means exactly, it is an amazing city. They really have everything you could need in a little city and it´s beautiful, clean, relaxed, and normal there. It isn´t overrun with tourists, but tourists are a part of the city. It has a vibe of people just living their lives. It has a university and lots of young people. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so it has lots of history and charm. There are great grocery stores, a movie theater, fun bars from all cultures, and amazing natural beauty all around.
#6. There is a Ton of Dinosaur Stuff in Bolivia
The dinosaurs were here! The area that is currently Bolivia used to be covered in dinosaurs and there is lots of evidence of that still in the area. Plus, they love dinosaurs so there are lots of parks and fun dino themed things around. Kristen is a little obsessed with dinosaurs so this was a big plus for Bolivia.
#7. Bolivia has Amazing Natural Beauty
There are a ton of beautiful natural places to see in Bolivia. We didn´t even make it to the Amazon part of Bolivia and we were blown away by it´s natural splendor. Here are some shots of what we thought was a pretty amazing country to see, even out the window of a dangerous busride along a windy road.
It might be hard to get to Bolivia, and kind of annoying once you do finally reach Bolivia, but still, it is quite a beautiful country. We have moved on to Chile and are now in Peru. It´s hard to believe that 3 months have already gone by on the road on our South American adventure. We will be back in the USA next week!
After traveling in Bolivia for 6 weeks, Kristen and I have experienced a wide range of emotions and accompanying thoughts, that we are still trying to process. It’s a complex country. Due to our obvious status as strangers in a strange land here, we can´t help but question and wonder about the cultural differences we see in Bolivia. Are things ¨better¨in the USA? Hard to say, but we are used to some things back home that we really don´t want to give up. Here is a list of some things that really annoy us about Bolivia, sorry in advance for the complaining. There will be an entire post soon on everything we love about Bolivia to balance this out 🙂
# 1. The Food is Less Than Delcious, and Often Dangerous:
One of the best things to do as a tourist is try out the local cuisine. What is the best thing to eat around here? Well, in Bolivia it turns out to be potatoes, and that´s about it. Keep your fingers crossed for some hot sauce to put on those potatoes because the flavor profile is pretty bland. To be fair, there often is hot sauce, but why not just make the food taste like something in the first place instead of making me search for salt and pepper?
After giving up on traditional Bolivian food, either because it tastes like not much or you have been poisoned one too many times, maybe you want to try the Bolivian take on ethnic food. Well, that would extend to trying the local pizza or Chinese food, which is not something I would actually advise you to do. It´s utterly boring and kinda gross. The pizza has thin and soft crust, sauce will be more of hint than a full idea, and the cheese will be pale and slightly sour. Maybe your pizza will be graced with one or two slices of deli ham or canned mushrooms.
If you decide for Chinese food it will be overcooked rice, barely seasoned, with a smattering of vegetables and some pork shavings or chewy chicken. If you opt for noodles instead, rest assured they will be spaghetti noodles. Always spaghetti noodles around here. Most Bolivians seem to enjoy fried chicken with their Chinese food. I say you are better off just going to one of the million fried chicken places where they specialize in chicken dinners. Watch out for Friday or Saturday nights though, because the fried chicken place will be insanity. Someone told me a sausage dish called modongo is the national dish, but I think they might have unofficially changed it to fried chicken through popular vote.
So you tried some Bolivian food, maybe even found something delicious (next post I’ll fill you in on all that I find scrumptious but elusive in Bolivia), unfortunately the next step is that you’re going to be sick. Food safety in Bolivia is not a thing, so any meat you ate was most certainly not refrigerated at a constant temperature or handled with any rules of hygiene. If you went for a salad, there is a good chance the dirt was washed off the leaves with unfiltered tap water and then not dried. There is a large surface area on lettuce, lots of water, lots of microbs, lots of stomach issues. Bring some antibiotics to Bolivia and hope they work. Also, if you are into Pepto Bismal, bring that too because they do not sell it here.
Let´s not even talk about the coffee in the Bolivia. Why in a country where they grow coffee, does everyone drink instant Nescafe? It´s just frustrating. And they don´t seem to want to give you milk when you order a coffee. If you try getting it on the side it has to be all steamed up for some reason, and cost you extra. Just give me a splash of cold milk! I have no idea how to say that in Spanish, but it wouldn´t matter if I did. No one would get it.
#2. Garbage, Garbage, Literbugs Bolivians throw their garbage on the ground. I’m not saying its every single Bolivian who doesn’t notice littering, but I have seen people of every social class and type throwing their garbage on the ground. The garbage is EVERYWHERE. It will probably always be there too, because who is going to come pick it up if there is always more? Sure, some parks and city streets have uniformed people sweeping up the garbage and putting in the bins (which are actually pretty plentiful in most cities). Then there is the vast countryside of garbage. It´s all along the highways and falling down the cliffs behind people’s houses. Do they not see it? Do they not care?
One taxi van we got into had a sign in it that said: ¨Please help keep the van clean and throw your trash out the window.¨ I´m not kidding. If I was suddenly Bolivian, I think this would be my cause, yelling at people that I will take their trash when I see them about to throw it out the window of a moving vehicle.
#3. Getting from A to B is Usually an Uncomfortable Mystery Yay! It’s time to hit the road! So, you go to the bus station to buy a ticket. First off, don’t try and plan too far ahead. One day in advance could be fine, but same day is often best. The schedule may change overnight or better yet, the bus might not make it. It can be a ¨wait and see¨ if the bus survived it’s last journey before committing to another trip. How confidence inspiring!
Anyway, the bus station is confusing enough that you end up going in advance anyway. You have to go to each company counter to see if they have a bus to your destination. Hopefully, they have a handwritten sign with times but often those times are wrong anyway, so you may end up going to each bus company counter and asking if they are going to a certain city, at what time, and with what kind of bus. So just go for a good wander, looking a bit lost and perplexed. To add to the fun there will be people yelling destinations at you in a kind of creepy, sing song, persistent manner.
Likely, there is more than one company going to your destination so you will have to randomly pick one of these people shouting at you to go talk to. Then when you get to the counter there will be no one there to sell the tickets. Maybe they are in the bathroom, or at lunch, or who knows where. Hopefully, they will come back soon but there is no way of knowing.
Another good way to pick can be looking at the buses outside before entering the terminal to see which one you might dare to board if you had to choose. Of course, that company probably has some crappy buses too, but maybe not? maybe this bus with the tread on the tires indicates that this company has acceptable buses? You can also try asking if the bus has a bathroom or fully reclining seats but you will not be told the truth (see #5). As far as I have experienced, or heard from any other travelers, there are no buses in Bolivia with (open) bathrooms or fully reclining seats.
Ok, whatever, you crossed your fingers and bought a ticket. Now, it´s time to board the bus. Somehow you need to get your bag underneath. Maybe you need to leave it at the company counter inside, maybe you need to find a young boy who will load it for you, maybe you just need to wait and see. When you do get your bag underneath, it´s unlikely you will be given a ticket or any other proof that you ever had a bag. The door to the luggage compartment will probably remain open and unattended so maybe you should wait to jump on the bus until the last minute, just to make sure your bag comes along for the ride. Or you could just press your face against the window from inside the bus, scanning for anyone walking away with your bag.
Did you pay the bus terminal use fee? What´s that you ask? There will be a small fee for the privilege of using the terminal. Good luck figuring out where to pay this fee. Sometimes there is a booth in the bus station and sometimes you will pay it on the bus. Hopefully, you also paid to use the bathroom in the terminal because otherwise you have a very long wait till you can pee again (see #6). But yay! you´re on your way! Suddenly, the bus will stop right outside the bus station and many more people will get onto the bus. Hmmm, is this to avoid the bus terminal use fee? Or maybe they just couldn´t get to the terminal on time?
Now that you have located your seat, which will inevitably have something crusted onto it, you can enjoy the ride. The road will be twisty and involved going up and up and then down and down. Winding, winding, winding. The bus driver will drive on both sides of the road indiscriminately and pass when there is definitely not a passing lane. Pray that you got a seat by a window, because you will want to open it. There will be lots of smells on the bus, but one of the dominant ones will be coca leaves, and it´s kind of any overwhelming smell. There will also be lots of food smells and human odors.
Three different people will probably be playing music really loud on their phones so you can hear a great mishmash of pan pipes. Winding winding winding. The bus will randomly stop to pick up or drop off people in the middle of nowhere. You will wonder when and if the bus is ever going to stop for a bathroom break, but the answer is never, unless you ask to pee on the side of the road. This is allowed, but everyone will see you pee. No Bolivian woman will ever ask the bus to stop for a pee. It will always be a gringa. There are many tolls and security checkpoints and women will appear at your window, ready to toss you a bag of roasted chicken and corn, or a soda, or candy, or whatever you need. Be prepared with exact change because no one in Bolivia has any change.
You can also take minibuses around the countryside on routes that large buses don´t cover. The process for them is largely the same, except that you will need to find where they stop (somewhere incomprehensible), barter for the price (or just accept whatever because you will probably be laughed at for trying), know where you need to jump out in the countryside (the driver will conveniently forget you are even in the taxi), and you will have far less leg room. Most of these little VW buses would have two rows of seats in the US, but the Bolivians manage to cram 4 rows in and won´t take off until all the rows are full. Gringa legs will not fit, especially if you are under 5 foot 2 inches.
The likelihood of having a window that opens will go down dramatically from a tour bus and you might suffocate. You will roast alive while the Bolivians around you snuggle down into leather jackets and wool hats, inexplicably cold in the 80 degree heat of the coca leaf reeking van. More and more people will be crammed into the bus, in places you didn´t imagine would be a seat. Children will be strewn on top of everyone. Anyway, it´s nice that there is public transportation since most everyone doesn´t have a car. Don´t expect to hitchhike. You can hail basically anyone for a ride but they will charge the same as a minivan for picking you up.
#4. It´s Hard to Breathe and Getting Harder
Even as I sit here in an internet cafe, I’ve resorted to covering my mouth and nose with my scarf because the air pollution from traffic is that bad. I read a rumor on the internet that the public buses are decommissioned local transport from China that had to be sold because they don’t meet Chinese emission standards. I believe it. All the buses and trucks in Bolivia are belching clouds of gray or black gas. I’m not very knowledgable about emissions from vehicles but I’m pretty sure all colors of smoke coming from them are bad. To back up this urban legend, buses do have characters on the side from some Asian language that I’m not smart enough to identify (probably because my brain cells have been killed off by the pollution).
Add to all this pollution some extreme altitudes. La Paz lies at 12,000 feet above sea level and Potosi is considered one of the highest cities in the world at 13,500 feet. There isn´t much oyygen up here in the first place so good luck walking up and down the cities streets. When you do pause to inhale deeply, take a good look around first to avoid choking down a big lungful of bus smog. It can’t really be avoided in La Paz, but Sunday when most things are closed can be a good day for taking in the architecture.
#5. The Telling You What You Want to Hear Game Another cultural quirk we want to complain about is the Bolivian custom of telling you what you want to hear. Often, this turns out to be a blatant lie. But hey, they were just trying to be nice! So, if you ask for directions, you will always recieve directions, whether that person has any idea where you are going or not. The solution here is to ask everyone you see for directions. Maybe it´s the law of averages, but you will eventually get there. I know this isn´t just a fun game they play with gringos because even Bolivians ask everyone for directions. I was once walking to a waterfall with a Bolivian in an unknown town. She literally asked every person we came across where the waterfalls were. You just keep asking.
Sometimes these lies seem spiteful though. Like, if you ask if there is hot water in the showers at a hotel. They ALWAYS say yes, but there probably is only hot water every once in a while and they won´t tell you that. There might not be hot water at all. The same is often true for wifi. Maybe they have wifi sometimes, but not all the time and it is never going to be a fast connection. As far as I can tell, there is no such thing as fast internet in Bolivia. Interestly, the lady at this internet cafe told us the connection was slow before we sat down. Confused, I asked her if there was somewhere in town with a fast connection? No, she said.
One of my favorite lies is 2 for 1 drink special. They must do these specials for gringos, which is nice, but the price is not actually 2 drinks for the price of one. Usually it is just a small discount off getting two. For example if a mojito is Bs 22, you can get two for Bs 30 or something like that. Do they not know what 2 for 1 means in English? I would say the translation for 2×1 from Spanish into English is simply Happy Hour. On a tangent, there are lots of these in Peru as well for tourists except they may even offer 4 for 1, which turns out to be four small drinks in cups half the size of 2×1. Ok….
Oh, and like I mentioned before, they will often tell you there is a bathroom on the overnight buses. This is marginally true, because often there is a bathroom physically on the bus. The door to said bathroom will be locked though, thus rendering the bathroom unavailable to you. I´m pretty sure they know what you mean when you ask if there is a bathroom on the bus, so I count this another fun lie.
#6 Bathrooms, Try and Hold It Speaking of bathrooms, Bolivian ones are hard to get down with if you are used to running water. Often, when you are done using the bathroom, you must exit the stall, put your hand into a barrel of questionable water, fill a bucket up, and then dump that water in the toilet to flush it. Outside of one of the libraries we volunteered at, the water barrels were marked with hazardous waste stickers. Ok, it´s great to reduce, reuse, recycle, but I draw the line at hazardous waste barrels. I´m not putting my hand in there, especially if I can see insect larvae hatching in the waiting water. One of the schools we went to didn´t even offer water for flushing, so I´m not sure if those toilets ever got flushed…I wonder if a composting toilet or a latrine wouldn´t be better?
Forget about toilet paper, toilet seats, stall doors, sinks with running water, soap, paper towels or washing your hands. Bring you own toilet paper every time you enter the bathroom and hand sanitizer for when you leave. Always travel with your own towel and do not expect hot water in the showers, or shower curtains. Expect that everything you bring into the shower will get wet. If you´re in a hostel, expect a line because the person to bathroom ratio will be high. Peeing in the street in broad daylight seems to be reserved for the very young or the very old. For everyone else, you have to at least try to take cover, but it´s pretty much a free for all if you cannot find a bathroom. That being said, I´m glad they do have bathrooms at all.
Ok, enough complaining. This post took me forever to write and doesn´t have that great of photos because I didn´t want to spend all my time taking horrible photos of Bolivia since I really like it. Some challenges do exist though 🙂 Next post I will write about what I did love about Bolivia.
Bolivia may not have a coastline, but that doesn’t mean it lacks for geological diversity, stunning landscapes, or fun places to go swimming. Last week we took a jaunt to Villa Abecia in southern Bolivia for a new library inauguration with Biblioworks and tacked on a tourist weekend in Tarija. Both towns are in Bolivian wine country, so we did our best to taste the local vintages! This is high altitude wine country, with some award winning wines that allegedly have higher antioxidant levels than wines grown at lower altitudes. Drink up!
We started out the trip with a six hour ride south. There were seven of us from Biblioworks going so we rented a minivan taxi just for us. The road, like most in Bolivia was extremely windy and involved unpaved “shortcuts”. Our driver, like most in Bolivia, drove like a maniac who felt no need to stay on either side of the road, obey any speed limit signs, or pull over when our ten year old passenger got carsick and vomited into a plastic bag…numerous times. Thank goodness for headphones and podcasts!
Biblioworks is a non-profit organization based in Sucre, Bolivia and Asheville, NC, USA. They help fund, set up, and train librarians for small rural communities. Some of their libraries are in schools and some, like this one in Villa Abecia, are run by the municipality. The town chooses the librarian and runs the library with Biblioworks as their adviser. Eventually, the libraries are meant to become self-sustaining without the aid of Biblioworks.
After Villa Abecia we took a cab south to the city of Tarija. Lonely Planet guidebook calls the town “laid back”, and I’d have to say that I agree. Unfortunately, we got there after dark with no hotel reservation, so after our cab driver dumped us unceremoniously on the side of the road no where near downtown, we did our best to find a room for the night. Since we are cheap, I mean, on a tight budget, we ended up at not the nicest place in town, the Gran Hotel Londres. It seemed like it had lot of potential since the lobby looked like this:
Well, we ended up packing up and finding a new hotel in the morning, mostly because the mattresses where like tiny gym mats that couldnt’ have been more uncomfortable. Oh, and there were buzzing mosquitos around all of our ears all night. Somehow I escaped without any bites but Kristen was covered. Rough night, not worth the $7 a night even with the cool decor. Check out Hotel Miraflores instead. Same price but slightly better mattresses and less bugs.
After getting set up with our new hotel, we booked a wine tasting tour for the afternoon. We went with Viva Tours, which was priced the same as all the others but came recommended. For some reason they told us to show up at 1:30, I guess so we could wait on the deserted street corner for half an hour, but otherwise the tour was fine. They say you will swing by a cool canyon for a scenic overlook/photo opp but this was no the case on our tour.
The next morning was a little slow due to Halloween shenanigans. We hit up our favorite breakfast spot, Gatto Pardo for the third time since they had real coffee. Then we tried to see some more waterfalls in the nearby village of Coimata. We took a bus headed to Tomatitos then caught a trufi from the bridge there. At the bridge were many ladies selling congrejos, which are tiny freshwater crabs. We tried one but hangover belly wasn’t having more than that.
The van ride from the bridge was very entertaining, with many local woman getting on and off with bottles of strange substances and bags of brown liquids and terrible smells. a teenage girl wanted to question us about our origins, hair and eye colors and what languages we could speak. Finally, we reached the waterfalls, and although it was too chilly to swim, but had a nice time hanging out.
Well, that was our trip to Tarija more or less. We took an overnight bus back to Sucre that night. I think we went with the bus line Expresso or something like that, with reclining seats for 140 Bolivianos. The driver was a mad man, blasting tunes all night long, passing other buses on curves, and causing the woman behind us to panic. At one point she tried to get us to yell at him since she already had. I declined, knowing it was pointless. Luckily, we survived and made it back to Sucre in about 10 freezing, terrifying hours. The bus left us near, but not at, the bus terminal? and we went back to Casa de Javiers for a long nap.